With the volume and nature of queries regarding borewell problems ,we see here on farmnest, I thought why not develop a simple guide that offers solutions to some common borewell problems, for the benefit of the online agricultrural community.And hence I am attaching a brief guide here to start with for the same.
This guide is based on my limited knowledge and experience and I kindly request members here to correct me if anything is found wrong and also to share problems & solutions which are not included, so that everyone can benefit.
I kindly request anyone downloading here to kindly come out with atleast one problem that they faced regarding borewell and what solution solved it.
Hope this post will address issues related to borewell.
Thank you Very Much for Providing Problems in Borewells .This will be most useful to our Forum Members.I am appreciating your effort in Posting such a Useful Post.
Sir I am Facing a Problem of my Borewell in my Land Nr. Hyderabad.The Bore was drilled up to 400 Feet. The Casing was inserted up to 120 Feet. We have tried to insert Pumpset within ONE week. But the Pumpset has gone only up to 45 Feet. and could not gone further even after several efforts.
In this regard we wish to inform that after the Drilling was completed while Flushing the Bore a Big sound was emitted.When asked the Driller, the Driller was not cared to Answer.I am thinking that the Casing pipe might have broken while Flushing.The Driller did not made any effort in rectifying the defect and demanded another Rs.50,000/- for rectifying the Borewell to insert the Pump up to required Depth. But I cannot afford to make further Payment, since I have already Paid to him Rs.75,000/-
Kindly advise in this Regard to make use of the Borewell since 2.5" water is available in the Borewell as Driller informed while Drilling.
Thank you with Best Wishes,
MANNE.SN,
Vasudha Green Farms,
vasudha greenfarms@gmail.com,
09133498366
My 100th post and am now a farmnest senior …wow!
Hello Mr.Manne,
Based on your post, it could be 3 potential issues here;
A)There is a mismatch between the pump dia and bore dia. Eg: Normally when the pump manufacturer’s say its a 6 inch pump it would not be exactly 6 inch but less than that so that pump can drop in freely. Please let us know your bore dia as well as pump type i.e V4 or V6 or V8 borewell submersible pumps to clarify this possibility
B)Your casing pipe has broken and blocking free drop of pump. Have you tried checking the casing?
C)Your borewell has collapsed beyond 45ft (worst-case scenario)
My Borewell Disa is 6.50 Inches (i.e. 61/2") while the Pump Dia is 6" (6 Inches).
We have tried with 4" Pump also but in vain. We thought that mud has been filled up.
As seen on the Bottom of Pump we found Mud. There is no Possibility of Verifying the Status of Casing Pipe.
Kindly enlighten us the Procedure if the Mud is filled up either from Bottom of the Casing or if it is from the broken portion of the Casing Pipe.
Thank you With Best Wishes,
MANNE.SN,
for Vasudha Green Farms,
09133498366.
I would suggest you to use a venturi pump (Air Compressor) to flush mud and slit and try erecting pump. Also, are you using GI/PVC/HDPE for bore?
Also, untill and unless the casing is checked how could we ignore the possibility of casing damage?
If your driller is suggesting to rectify the issue, as him what or how is he proposing to do that. This will help you to understand if he’s being genuine and is the additional money worth putting into.
I am apprehensive about the Water Yield of 2.5" i.e. approximatey 5,919 Litres Per Hour, from your borewell, because with that amount of water yield in the borewell, known at the 21 kg lifting pressure of an Air compressor, the borewell shall not be chocked.
The borewell in Hyderabad region, is drilled by the DTH (Down The Hole) method, In DTH drilling, the drill pipes transmit the necessary feed force and rotation to hammer and bit plus compressed air or fluids for the hammer and flushing of cuttings.
Nowadays, the High Pressure Compressors are used by the Drilling contractors, as such, the fast hammer action breaks hard rock into small flakes and dust and is blown clear by the air exhaust from the DTH hammer upto the Ground surface, catching the wall of the borehole / Casing pipe, in this process, due to higher ROP (Rate Of Penetration) the borewell with the mediocre (low yield) may end up giving no yield due to the cementation caused due the dust & water (Influxes) on the wall of the borewell.
In your case, the same thing might have happened. Water in the borewell, always tries to move to a lower elevation under the pull of gravity. In short, the Rate of Penetration is higher, than the incoming speed of water, which I probably think has caused the Infux (obstruction) in the borewell & as such you are unable to install the Pump set into the borewell even of the V4 size.
The blasting sound that u might have heard, might have occurred in the process, where Influx caused in the hollow bore hole is thrusted upwards by the the high pressure compressed air, It is the same principle, when we are blowing the air ballon & it bursts with the basting sound effect, and as such there is a possibility that the PVC pipe might have cracked or broken, allowing the upper strata soil & other sediments coming into the bore hole, which may be the reason you are seeing the mud at the bottom of the Pump set.
Solution to your Problem -
Here’s what probably you may do after discussing with your borewell Contractor -
Confirm the Water Yield of the borewell with the Driller / u may ask the borewell contractor to confirm the water yield with his
service pump set (If available). In the later case, I doubt the borewell contractor shall confirm the yield with service pump set
U may try flushing the borehole by engaging the Inwell Rig unit, Inwell drilling rigs have the low pressure air compressors as
compared to the Truck mounted Drilling rigs, by inserting the DTH hammer of 4.5" diameter, and must see if the problem is
solved.
Flushing the borewell is the cheapest option u may try, if problem is not solved, there are other options, which I shall suggest, which may require the reasonable amount of cost.
Thank you sir for your valuable solution provided earlier,
Now I am Facing a Problem in another Bore well. While Staring the Submersible Motor, we are getting Milky colour for some time.After that though we are getting Plain water , the water yield is very less . Kindly inform us what to do for this Bore well. The water in the Borewell not receded the reason behind it is that one stream is Passing near to this Borewell .Last year after stop Passing water in the Lake the water was come down. Then we have added one Pipe length of 20 FEET.Kindly advise what to do.
Thank you With Best Wishes,
MANNE.SN,
09133498366.
We are glad to know that your previous problem was solved.
We hope your problem with this recent borewell has been solved, in case, your problem still persists, we would be more than happy to help you with the solution to your problems.
Milky Colour water from the borewell -
Milky white water, also commonly described as cloudy, hazy, soapy, or foamy, is almost always caused by air in the water. One of the many properties of water is its ability to dissolve gases. Sometimes the air comes out of the water in the form of many tiny bubbles which gives water a milky white appearance. To see if the white color in the water is due to air, fill a clear glass with water and set it on the counter. Observe the glass of water for 2 or 3 minutes. If the white color is due to air, the water will begin to clear at the bottom of the glass first, then gradually to the top. This is a natural phenomenon and is completely normal - the water is safe to use.
This can happen when the weather begins to warm, anytime there is a significant heat wave, or whenever the water has been turned off for repairs. Cold water holds more dissolved air than warm water. In the spring, when the water in the borewell is cold it contains a relatively high level of dissolved air. As the water moves through the pipes in your house, it begins to warm and lose some of its ability to keep the air dissolved. However, because the water is under pressure in the pipes, the air remains in the water. When you relieve the pressure by opening the faucet and filling your glass with water, the air is free to escape from the water, giving it a milky appearance for a few minutes. This same set of circumstances can cause your hot water to be cloudy.
Milky white water can also form after you have had work done on your plumbing. When the water is shut off, air can get in the water main or your pipes. When the water pressure is restored, some of that air dissolves into the water. When you again relieve the pressure by opening the faucet, the air is free to escape from the water, thus giving it a milky white appearance for a few minutes. This phenomenon will usually last from several days to several weeks, depending on many different factors.
If your water is cloudy or milky white in appearance and it does not clear in a glass after five minutes, u may have to check with the other parameters, but, in your case as described by you we do not see any other factor affecting the appearance of water, as we assume that it is not giving any faulty odor or taste.
Low yield of the Borewell -
Water in the Borewell is not available from any River / Lake / reservoir, water coming into the borewell aquifer are all flowing sources which is based on the natural Hydrogeological Cycle of the region, and as such, we get the per hour yield from the borewell. Water aquifers are usually recharged from local sources of percipitation. Confined aquifers, however, frequently receive recharge many miles from the well.
In stream, in the borewell, water is always flowing from up to down i.e. at the lower elevation, by gravity, and it is maintaining its own level in the borewell when the pump is not running.
The low yield of your borewell, after couple of minutes of pumping, is due to the water level in the borewell going down with the pumping.
Borewell itself is a storage tank, where the water from the aquifers is stored
We would like to suggest you to have the automation of borewell in synchronization with your storage tank, so that whenever the water in the borewell comes at the static / stayable level the pump should start automatically & when the level of water in the borewell goes down it must stop the pumping, similarly when, the level in your storage tank is full the the system should go in the stand by mode & whenever the level goes down in your storage tank the Pumping cycle should start.
With the automation of the borewell, you are able to derive the full potential of the borewell, i.e. u can get the per hour yield of the borewell. “When you are sleeping your system is working”
We hope that the above given suggestions shall solve your problem for the trouble free supply of water from the borewell.
May you have any further queries, please feel free to contact us at any time.
Thanking you & wishing you all the very Best for future.
With reference to your query for Calcium content in your borewell & Flushing the borewell for improving the low yield in the borewell & removing the calcium ions, we have to suggest the following -
High Calcium content in the borewell water would develop a scaling on your plumbing systems, which is easily visible through a naked eye, the scaling shall clog up & cause blockages in your drip lines, it simply means that water contains minerals found in the earth, Calcium in the water makes your water hard.
One effect of Hard water is that soaps & detergents loose some effectiveness, i.e. the amount of foam formed from the soap or detergent may be less.
cleaning the borewell for calcium in the water, by flushing would require serious redevelopment, with rigorous air surging i.e. high pressure flushing shall be required to cleanse the fractures far enough from the well to reduce water velocity through / over the white minerals i.e. if the water contains high calcium minerals.
In your case, as per your description of the scenario, we assume, that, the calcium minerals would have precipitated from the soil, in your farmland, as such, we would suggest you to try the following remedy which shall cost u very minimum, before going in for the flushing of borewell.
We suggest that you make a soapy solution, by mixing Surf Detergent powder 1kg approx. (remember to use the amount that makes the water feel slippery) in the barrel of water & pour the soapy water solution into the borewell, then, recycle the water in the borewell with your installed pumpset for about 3-4 hrs, after recycling the water discharge the water out from the borewell. this will reduce the calcium ions in your water & scaling caused by Calcium, if any. Detergents have the balanced water softners in them to reduce the hardness of water.
Repeat the procedure for 2-3 days as per your convenience. This will reduce the calcium ions if present.
The Milky water is Coming initially. Afterwards clear Water is coming. Further this water is being used by the Villagers since 1-1/2 Years. There was no problem at all for their health . However I will try with Detergent water as suggested by you Sir. For low yielding rectification shall I go for Flushing or not. Kinly advise me whether we can get better yield on flushing of Borewell. Also suggest us for the automation of borewell in synchronization about the Cost/Equipment /Procedure and the availability of the equipment.
Thank you With Regards,
MANNE.SN.,
for Vasudha Green Farms,
09133498366
If in case the jar test dont result in the milky white color turning transparent;
Milky white may be due to sulfate reducing bacteria’s as well. These bacteria’s thrive when you dont pump frequently
When you high pressurize the water,the water holds more air leading to the white color bubbles.Also checking the check valve for leaks would prove good as well.
Also the reason could be use of substantially lower pipe size which increases the pressure at the delivery point.
Flushing is done to remove any scaling in the borewell / clogs on the mouth of the borewell aquifer, due to silt depositions, u may go for the borewell flushing with the low pressure compressor, if the depth of the borewell is beyond 300 feets u may engage 600cfm / 200 psi Air compressor, I am suggesting low pressure compressor, because if the yield is low, then, with high pressure compressor the silt will not get the buoyancy (upward force exerted by a fluid that opposes the weight of an immersed object) of water, for silt to be flushed out effectively.
For automation, u need a SINTEX storage tank of 2000 Litres (as per your requirement) & a Control Panel Board for pumpset with the provision of 4 way automation system unit in it, Water level sensors for upper tank automation & borewell, PLEASE NOTE - If the water is hard, u may go with the timer / Current sensing control unit for borewell & install a ball cock system in the Storage Tank, as the hard water would create scaling on the sensor nodes in long run affecting its functionality.
U may contact, your local Pump dealer for the estimate & the system available there.
May you have any further queries, please feel free to contact us.
I have a 6-1/2" borewell of 390’ depth. The water yield was less. A 3 phase, 2 HP, 25 stage CRI pump with 1" discharge was fixed and I used to get water for an hour approximately, sufficient to fill my tank. I used to fill my cement-ring tank from where my drip connection is given. I have also made a recharge pit near my borewell.
Now my pump has failed and I am told that my well is collapsed and I could recover only my pipe and cables. The current depth of the bore is reduced to 270’. Water is available from 25’ onwards though the yield is poor.
I got another 2 hp pump of 25 stage. I am planning to fix this pump at 250’ depth and see if it works, before trying another borewell.
Should I flush the borewell before fixing the new pump? What would be approx expense for flushing this bore? Since the pump and some part of cable and pipes are still inside the well is it worth trying this option. Requesting help in this regard.
Since your yield is less, Flushing the borewell using a low pressure compressor before erecting the new pump would be a better option as this would ensure bore devoid of slit caused due to collapse.Also, checking if casing pipe is intact is a must before you drop the new pump…
Before you do the above, try recovering the stuck motor with pipe & cable. Chances of recovering is high if you have used GI pipes as the motor mechanic with a chain block and pulley would be able to lift it up. But HDPE pipes would be extremely difficult to get pulled out along with the pump.
I am not very sure about the commercials for flushing in your place, but back here they charge price/hr ranging between 300 to 600.
…wow!
Congrats!