Viks
I need a little info
How many people are required to tie half acre of capsicum the first time and in how many days the work is done ? What’s the scenario in your field ?
Because mine, i think are taking way too long. Need to find out this gap !! Somewhere something is getting wrong
Aman
vivek thanks for your reply…
village name : Nemali
district : Krishna
State : Andhra Pradesh
i did write a email to SHM and NHM… i am waiting for there reply …
viks this was my schedule in last 10 days.
24th march 0:52:34 - 1kg and 0:0:50 - 500gm
25th march 13:0:45 - 1kg and 0:0:50- 500 gm
spray - amino acid 100ml + borosol 100ml + micronutrient
26th march calcium nitrate 1kg + humid acid 100ml
27th march 0:52:34 - 1kg + 0:0:50 500gm
imidacloprid - 100ml+FE edta 100gm+amino acid 100ml
28th march magnesium sulphate - 1kg + 0:0:50 - 500gm+ humid acid- 150 ml
29th march 0:52:34 1kg + calcium nitrate- 1kg
30th march spray- amino acid 100ml +micronutrient 150gm + tiger(for leaf miner) 50ml+imidacloprid 100ml
8, 31st march 0:52:34 - 1kg + 13:0:45 1kg+ humid acid - 150ml+ gaumutra 2lt
1st april calcium nitrate- 1.5kg+magnesium sulphate - 1kg
2nd april 0:0:50 1.5kg
spray- fipronil - 100gm+kasugamycin 100ml+nuvan 50ml
do see it and let me know if i am making a mistake anywhere or if i could make any improvements in this.
Aman
Also viks
Noose knot is used to tie the plant with the string !!
Is it how its suppose to be, or i did something wrong ?
Aman
Aman,
fipronil is good option, as its is both stomach and contact. and i read that u’ve used Nuvan along with. wise combination. i find borers and worms the most easiest to control, among the rest.
one spray and they are out, and visit only in the next cycle.
the hatching is done every full moon / no moon day. so a spray before and after, and they are under control.
about the rest, i m waiting for the pictures.
your schedule looks great, only that you have sprayed imidacloprid twice in 3 days, that wasnt necessary. apart from this, take a combination of boron (200gms/barrel) and chelated calcium (200 gm/barrel) for fruit setting + nitrobenzene (400ml/barrel) and organic carbon (400ml/barrel) this is for plant health.
apart from this, i would personally recommend Chlormequat Chloride (about 1 litre/week) for node setting.
and also micronutrient from root (500 gm/10-15 days) and folic acid (200gm/barrel) via foiler.
you can also give a treat to your plants by giving a dose of sea weed extract once in a month.
dont sweat as these are not expensive products. if you search you’ll find many options in various price range. all this should cost you about Rs 300-500/barrel.
vvk
Aman,
support work… first time… i cant really recall, but it sure was a pain.
but now, i need about 6-7 people for about 5-6 days for the first support. i get additional labor for support, and the local labor is quiet good at it. so now i dont have to worry.
i am guessing your going thru some teething problems. but thats gona happen Aman, thats how you get better 
and about the noose knot, are you asking or telling ? 
the knot which is used here is very simple, i dono how to explain or draw
vvk
viks here are some pics
all the pictures that i have put show different problems in different plants, from fruit rotting, fruit dropping, thrives, virus attack etc.
do see the pictures and post your comments plus suggestions to solve these problems.
Aman buddy,
the first picture is bottom rot, fungal problem. i am guessing you are using foggers once in a while, or wetting the inside of the PH. just let me know if its true so we can act accordingly.
i strongly recommend Tebuconazole (once in 10-15 days) as this is specially for bottom fruit rot.
then there are thrives problem, i would take a foiler of Clothianidin and then a repeat spray after 10 days of Acetamiprid. make sure u wash the plants properly (Down and top side)
about virus, i really dont see any symptoms as of now in the pictures you have uploaded, apart from the little fruits. but if you have noticed white flies, make sure u target them first.
all other disease can be controlled to an extent, but viral problem… No ways !
this will cover the bottom rot and thrives, white flies problem.
flower drop issue we had discussed earlier. so thats it for now.
just let me know if you are using foggers or watering the walkways to keep the inside cool.
vvk
Viks
You are right
I am using foggers every 1 hour for 5 min, because the humidity goes down to 7-10 everytime
Aman.
And viks
Isnt the 3rd and 4th pictures showing virus attack
Because in the starting their were 3-4 plants in the whole plant which had 0 growth and leaves were same as this one.
Hence i removed those plants, thinking it was virus attack and shouldnt spread in my ph
Aman
Guys,
Please check there is product called nualgi foliar spray. It is based on diatom algi. 100% organic. It converts all glucose in leaves to ATP(adinosine Triphosphate). Pests are not interested in ATP, they dont get glucose. Thus your plants are saved. This is also works as nutrient. you can stop providing fertiliser to soil. it is pretty interesting product. for technical details google “nualgi nanobiotech”
This spray will sheild for fungii and virus also. In our locality cabbage is being grown without fertiliser and pesticide. They spray only this foliar spray.
Mr Chandra good morning---- thanks for the info. but i couldnot find any product for usage in agri field in the NUALGI website. it had products for ponds and fish culture only. so please send the details and about where we can get this product. it will be usefull for all members
thank you
You are right. Their website dont contain the agriculture product
see below video and contact information is also there
youtube.com/watch?v=UFFSKgo56qo
Aman,
bottom rot will happen when theres fluctuation in the humidity. maybe in the day you are using foggers and controlling, but when u stop it, the humidity goes off from that point till the next cycle.
stop using foggers and let the plants get used to the heat. also keep the upper curtains close incase they are open.
fungicide i’ve told you already.
about the virus infection, cant really see the symptoms in the plants. take closer picture of the leaves. incase the veins look swollen and pale green, then its a virus. leaf crinkling is also cause of thrives.
before i forget, check the down side of the infected leaves, it can be fungus also, as the leaves have become light green from top side.
and aman, what type of spraying gun are you using ?
as a rule, make sure sprays for fungus and white flies are taken from the lower side.
vvk
Viks
when i don’t use foggers the humidity goes down to 10-20% and temperature goes up by 41-42 Celsius . do you think plants will be able to survive that and flower and fruit at this temp. ?
i will stop using foggers from tomorrow itself, upper curtains are closed since the onset of summer, we are keeping the side curtains close all day and then the workers open it at around 4 in the evening for like 2 hours and then close it by 6, so that plants can get a bit for fresh air and oxygen for utilizing at night. should i continue this or should i like open the side curtains daily ?
viks for spraying i am using the HTP power sprayer and the long gun which has adjustments i.e i can make the spray shorter+ wider and longer + more like compressed. I generally use the shorter spray because that is more polite to the plants as the person who is spraying is close to the plants, you see what i mean !!
i will check and let you know about the fungus on the bottom of the leaves, as of today i haven’t seen any such thing because i check my plants daily and throughly.
also, viks. to stop flower drop and fruit drop i was searching for nitrobenzene here but i couldn’t get it here. so i took a spray of planofix (bayer), fruit and flower drop has stopped and also since the spray was taken yesterday the plant was little low for a day but then it again regained itself (no harm right ?). i am planning not to like give a shock to the plant and wait a day or 2 for my other sprays of fungicide and insecticide that you have suggested.
you suggested white fly must have attacked but i checked today, their were no flies because generally during the infestation of white fly we can see them flying around once we shake the plant or leaves a little (just an observation)
Aman
Aman, dont worry about the temperature being 40-42. thats pretty normal for syngenta varieties.
bottom rot wont go until you control the humidity fluctuation. so better stop the foggers, and let the plants get used to the natural pattern.
planofix is good, i was reading about it couple of days ago only. promises to stop flower drop and increase production. i too am going to take trials.
and virus will be spread by whiteflies, so if the infection is spreading, you definitely have whiteflies in your ph.
oh btw, when do you plan to start your harvest aman ?
vvk
Viks
About the harvest
I guess my cApsicum will be ready to harvest in another 10-15 days
Right now the plants are little low due to the spray of planofix
Viks, do tell me about the side curtains that i wrote on my previous post. Thank you
I will take precautionary sprays for whitefly. The one you suggested and also, i have stopped using foggers now
But just out of curiosity, when are the foggers actually used ?? Are they of any utility inside the polyhouse ?
Aman
Hi Aman,
i open the side curtains from about 11am to about 4 pm. rest all time the side curtains are closed. thats the time when the air starts getting warmer and it starts turning hot inside.
about the foggers, i used them first year, same time and ended up having bottom rot. so after than i have never used the foggers. at times i think as to why i got them installed.
for carnations, yes i would use them regularly to keep humid and cool.
vvk
Viks
Thinking about use of foggers , a question comes in my mind
As to why should we go for expensive polyhouses when their is actually no need to control the environment inside, one can save the cost and get a good quality greenhouse built for the same (capsicum farming), because during summers shadenet is the most useful i have noticed
Talking about capturing co2 for better plant develepment, we can go for polyfilms for about 4-5 feet from the groundand the rest can be insect net or simply shade net of desired %
I feel these polyhouses are for the crops like carnation, anthurium, high quality dutch roses, lillium etc, not majorly for vegetables like color capsicum
But on the other hand, do we get export quality capsicum fruits inside a greenhouse ? I think thats debatable.
I may be wrong but lets discuss a bit on this
Aman
