Most Red soils are deficient in calcium and potassium. So depending on how much Potassium you are already providing, you need to decide how much more will be needed. My relative who grew water melons for many years thinks splitting is due to water stress related issue and the holes are due to severe calcium deficiency. If you will use calcium nitrate, then make sure you dont use too much of Nitrogen and potassium as it will inhibit calcium uptake.
The shape issue is mainly due to poor irrigation / irregular watering schedule or too close spacing.
In the picture you have posted, I notice tiny white spots on the leaves. Is this a residual of some spray you have used?
if you have read my statement properly you would not have asked. i have clearly said that right dose at the right time and not at the time of harvest. then about changing the position of the fruits depends on the stage of maturity and intensity of heat and possibility of mulching and so on. we are not at the spot. our discussion is based on the facts provided by the farmer. that is why i have sugested him to contact local officials of the concerned department to get correct answer for all his questions.
Somebody had requested for fertigation schedule I am following. Here it is -
Day 3 - Day 9 (3 day interval) : Urea - 10 Kg, All 19 - 9 Kg, Poassium NITRATE - 4 kg
Day 12- Day 30 : Urea - 16 Kg, Poassium NITRATE - 10 kg, Mono Ammonium Phosphate - 2 kg
Day 33- Day 51: Urea - 14 Kg, Poassium NITRATE - 7kg, All 19 - 6 kg
Day 54 - Day 66 - Urea 22 kG, Potassium nitrate - 13 kg, Mono Amonium Phosphate - 2 Kg.
Pls note I have rounded some of the numbers to the nearest kg and the dosage is for 1 ha.
Took a couple of more pictures today. Could somebody tell me what could be the reason for blackening of the fruit on the top. Why does the second pic have a pale colour?
Could be Blossom End Rot. Usually caused by severe calcium deficiency and occurs in plants subjected to water stress. As i mentioned before, excess nitrogen fertilizer may also contribute to blossom-end rot as excess nitrogen inhibits uptake of calcium.
The first 2 pics with brown patches, unless they are Mud, could be very initial stages of Bacterial fruit blotch. Do you see them on the leaves as well? If they are BFB you will notice that the little spots will merge together and form blotch. Copper hydroxide 54% @ 700 grams per acre needs to be used. But i suggest you really do check with some knowledgeable guy locally. Dont wanna be misleading you looking at pictures.
If they are not blotchy, it could be âRind necrosisâ. Does the skin of the melon have have the texture of cork?? When you bought seeds, did the seed company state it was " Resistant to rind necrosis" ?
In the last picture, it Could be Blossom End Rot. Usually caused by severe calcium deficiency and occurs in plants subjected to water stress. As i mentioned before, excess nitrogen fertilizer may also contribute to blossom-end rot as excess nitrogen inhibits uptake of calcium.
Thanks agri-execâŚ
I googled blosson end rot and the pictures seem to suggest it occurs at the end of the fruit, unlike my pic where it occurs on the top side of the fruitâŚ
I will check about BFB tomorrow. Invited a KVK professor next week to have a look. Will revert back .
all three photos exhibit damages caused by insects like weevils and such others. sprays of insecticide and fungicide can prevent the crop from futher damages.
Blossom end means end of the blosoom I.e the flower or the beginning of the fruit. In tour case its the top part of the fruit that affected which is pretty much simiLar to a typical case of blossom end rot. In the other 2 cases it could be rind necrosis. Maybe you can pick a fruit and cut it to half. Examine if the skin I.e the rind has brown patches just above the red fleshy part. If you see no brown patches under the skin you are doin OK. My guess is its a solid bacterial infection.
The stage of using systemic insecticide has passed. Now it is only to prevent further attack. therefore safe contact insecticides like quinolphos and such others can be used. Regarding fungicide,carbendizem (Bavistan)/ Dithane combinations/captan can prevent decay after insect damage or prevent fungal infection. Pl see that you leave a gap of at least 12-15 days between spray and harvest. If you are planning harvest earlier, there is no need for spray because it will be of no use.
Boss thankfully doesnât look like necrosis. The rind inside looks ok. Are the leaves browning too?
Mix parafin oil (1litre) and 2teaspoons of soap powder in about 20 litres water and spray on the fruits asap. Use a small area for trial.
Alternatively, crush 200 grams of garlic and boil in it a litre of neem oil. When cool, mix with 20 ltrs water and soap powder and spray.
Try this on a small section and monitor for 4 days. Its definately a viral/bacterial attack.
Harsh as it may sound, you will need to uproot severely affected plants inorder to stop it from further spreading. Spray the solution on healthy fruits to protect them as during this stage of growth, fruits donât yet have the protective layer of wax on them.
